There’s no denying the wine’s power and intensity. It’s concentrated like a cement block, with richness, plummy aromas, sweetness and char. But it’s also candied and ultrarich in the mouth, with syrupy flavors of berry extract, cola and chocolate. A heavy wine that shows every ounce of its 15.5% alcohol. Ultimately it’s more sweet and powerful than it is precise. Drink now through 2013.——M.S.(2/1/2010)—— 90