The Lecheneaut 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin – although one of its two (separately- and watchfully-vinified) constituent parcels, below Charmes, was hailed-on – displays ripe black fruit quite transparent to chalky mineral and savory meaty nuances. Notes of black tea and licorice add further interest. This is less substantial but more refined and more expressive not to mention refreshing in finish than the corresponding Morey, and should reward owners for at least 4-5 years. Vincent and Philippe Lecheneaut report having ended up with higher potential alcohol in their 2006 fruit than in 2005 – though not, they hasten to add, equally ripe flavors – and having accordingly performed scarcely any chaptalization, so that only a few of the wines finished at over 13%. The regimen of new wood was essentially unchanged from 2005, which I think worked to the disadvantage of a number of these 2006s, wines that – while very well made, and in some instances distinguished – suffer considerably by comparison with their immediate predecessors.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083