Here's a wine that has not been reviewed for a number of years. The Alois Lageder 2018 Gewürztraminer Am Sand (with organic and biodynamic fruit) is openly floral and generous with thick layers of night-blooming jasmine, honey and fragrant exotic fruit, like papaya and mango. It offers a dry mouthfeel and a mid-weight approach. Open it with a salad after your main course.

The 2009 Gewurztraminer Am Sand comes across as soft and understated. Lime, mango, spices and exotic flowers flow from an attractive tapestry of aromas and flavors in this approachable, easygoing, but delicious wine. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014. Alois Lageder now has two distinct ranges. The Alois Lageder wines are made from purchased fruit, while the Tenutae Lageder wines are made from estate-owned vineyards, many of which are farmed biodynamically.Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

The 2008 Gewurztraminer Am Sand bursts onto the palate with layers of mango, passion fruit, exotic flowers, mint and spices, showing remarkable precision. The medium-bodied Am Sand delivers plenty of depth and persistence in a restrained, cooly elegant style. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2017. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405