The organic 2016 Montefalco Sagrantino Chiusa di Pannone performs beautifully and is one of the highlights of this tasting. It shows sweet cherry, preserved fruit, jammy tones and dark chocolate. These results are balanced and modern. Fruit is exclusively sourced from a 2.9-hectare site with vines planted in 1995 on limestone clay soils with southern exposures. Production is 6,300 bottles. Chiusa di Pannone is classic and elegant Sagrantino with good aging potential. The alcohol is high at 15%.

With robust and deep fruit weight guided by a good sense of elegance and balance, which is never easy with the stubborn Sagrantino grape, the organic Antonelli San Marco 2015 Montefalco Sagrantino Chiusa di Pannone is a classic expression of this important wine appellation in Umbria. It offers big power and tannic structure, all backed by dried blackberry, plum and plenty of exotic spice. Some 6,800 bottles were released.

Filippo Antonelli and his team make a fine Sagrantino, one of the best in the appellation. The 2011 Montefalco Sagrantino Chiusa di Pannone has been given ample time to age and develop some very interesting tertiary tones of licorice, campfire ash and cherry liqueur. This hot-vintage expression reveals a powerful and full-bodied approach that is packed tight with black fruit at its core. The wine closes with smoke and Christmas spice. A mere 3,800 bottles were produced.

The 2010 Montefalco Sagrantino Chiusa di Pannone is a bold and contemporary expression from this special appellation at the heart of Umbria. The wine opens to a dark and impenetrable appearance with thick aromatic layers that span the spectrum for a dark red of this sophistication and intensity. Black fruit segues to campfire ash, exotic spice and Spanish cedar. Those soft and spicy oak elements are put clearly on display. The finish is much softer and more velvety than you usually encounter with the highly tannic Sagrantino grape. This is a beautiful wine. Only 3,800 bottles were made.

The delicious 2008 Montefalco Sagrantino Chiusa di Pannone sees fruit sourced from a single vineyard spot just beyond Antonelli's gravity winery. This is a dark, wintery and richly etched red wine that delivers bold intensity and tight tannic firmness. In fact, the tannins offer an extra point of astringency in this slightly cooler vintage. This is a dark and brooding red wine that needs time to evolve and soften. The wine is in no hurry and nor should you be.