The yearly red 2013 Tilenus is the young, un-oaked Mencía from a cold, late vintage. It is quite open and clean, with notes of red licorice and wild berries with some herbs thrown in. The palate is medium-bodied, with juicy, fresh tannins and good acidity. 60,000 bottles produced.

The unoaked 2012 Tilenus shows the slight reduction and funkiness so typical of the Mencia vinified in inox. This is not a problem if you know it: this kind of unoaked Mencia wine should be decanted vigorously to get rid of those aromas with good amounts of air. Once the reductive notes blow-off you can enjoy the delicious notes and flavors typical of the grape: raspberries, strawberries, cherries and violets with a touch of licorice. The palate is light to medium-bodied, it is very smooth and drinkable. It is a wine of instant pleasure which offers both very good value and a perfect introduction to the Mencia grape and Bierzo wines. Drink 2013-2016 to enjoy the exuberance of the fruit. The official name of Tilenus is Bodegas Estefania, but everybody knows them by their brand name. The winery is owned by the Frias family, a name traditionally linked with the dairy business, and they were smart enough to hire Raul Perez as technical director for the winery. They own 40 hectares of vineyards, mostly around the villages of Pieros and Valtuille at around 800 meters altitude. The average age of their vineyards is very old, with some plots exceeding 100 years of age. They are one of the few producers in Bierzo offering more mature vintages; as you can see in this report they are still selling wines from 2004, 2005 and 2006. Imported by Classic Wines, Stamford, CT; tel. (203) 975-2522

The 2006 Tilenus Tinto Roble is 100% Mencia. It reveals an expressive perfume of violets, cherry, raspberry, and liquid minerality. Elegant on the palate, it is silky smooth, racy, and nicely focused. It is an excellent introduction to the Mencia grape. Importer: Andres Arribas, Wine Associates, Whitehouse Station, NJ; tel. (908) 534-8946

The Tilenus wines are 100% Mencia, the indigenous red grape of Bierzo. The 2005 Tinto Roble was aged for 10-12 months in French and American oak and bottled without filtration. Dark ruby in color, it reveals an enticing nose of violets, cherry, and black raspberry. Supple and forward on the palate, it possesses some light tannin and adequate fruit but could use greater depth. The attractive red fruit flavors lead to a moderately long finish. This is a wine to drink over the next 3-4 years. Importer: Andres Arribes, Wine Associates, Whitehouse Station, NJ; (908) 534-8946

One of the finest values I have tasted from this appellation is the dense ruby/purple-tinged 2001 Crianza, made from a 60-100 year old vineyard planted with an indigenous varietal, Mencia. Aged 12-14 months in French oak, it comes across like a Spanish version of a high class Cote de Nuits Pinot Noir. The tannin is soft, and the bouquet reveals lovely floral, black cherry, raspberry, smoke, earth, and mineral scents. Medium-bodied, pure, and racy, with a certain tension to its elements, it requires careful introspection to appreciate all the nuances. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565