The 2015 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes has a focused, Granny Smith apple and wet granite-scented bouquet that maybe does not quite have the vigor of the Champs-Gains at the moment. The palate is crisp on the entry with fine focus, again, commendable salinity here with excellent precision on the persistent finish. Once the aromatics enter their stride, this should be a superb Puligny from Bouchard Père. One to watch out for.

The 2013 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru les Combettes has a more nuanced bouquet than the Champs-Gain with more wet stone, almost gravelly scents emerging with encouragement. The palate is crisp and taut with a twist of sour lemon, a dash of spice and a commendably long finish. This is a superb Puligny Combettes from Bouchard Père: in some ways their most impressive contribution to the 2013 vintage.

The 2012 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes, which comes from purchased wine, is a little simple on the nose, especially for a Combette, missing the mineralite and tension that the vineyard can give. The palate is simple with a light stoniness, but it lacks energy and persistency on the finish. Drink now-2018. Although I tasted the wines of this Burgundy grand maison in London, I spent a morning with winemaker Philippe Prost to go through at least part of their large portfolio to get an insight into Bouchard Pere & Fils. Ever since Michel Bouchard established the house in 1731, it has been a permanent fixture in Burgundy, surviving seizure by the State after the Revolution, phylloxera, two World Wars and periods when the world simply was uninterested in Burgundy. Today they own 130 hectares of vines, more than any Bordeaux chateau, including 12 grand crus and 74 premier crus. Importer: Henriot Inc. and John E. Fells in the UK.