The top Sauvignon Blanc, made from selected rows of a Brancott Valley vineyard, is the 2016 Chosen Rows Sauvignon Blanc. This project has shown gradual refinement since its inception, culminating in the highly successful 2016. Fermented in older and larger-format oak, it shows classic, subtle notes of pencil shavings and struck flint alongside fleshy notes of nectarine and pink grapefruit. Medium to full-bodied, it's tighter and longer than the impressive 2015 and should drink well for up to a decade.

The nose of the 2015 Chosen Rows Sauvignon Blanc features attractive hints of struck flint in the mold of a good Pouilly-Fumé. The fruit is ripe and round, flirting with stone fruit (nectarines?), fig and melon, and delivering a round, creamy mouthfeel. This medium to full-bodied Sauvignon Blanc then finishes long, with an elegant swirl of pink grapefruit.

A big, rich wine, the 2013 Chosen Rows Sauvignon Blanc is full-bodied, showing ample stone fruit, a silky texture and a long, citrusy finish. I suspect it's probably at peak maturity now, but given that the 2010 still appears to be going strong, perhaps I'm underestimating its ageability.