The easygoing 2014 Dolcetto d'Alba opens to bright fruit intensity and bold tones of dark cherry, blackberry and candied almond. The wine peels back in thick layers with chewy consistency and plump, fruity richness. This Dolcetto sees stainless-steel winemaking and ripe cherry endnotes.

Leather and animal notes mar the nose. The palate is chunky and firm, with a touch of cabbage flavor that interferes with the dark fruit. Has it mostly together, but a mild yet persistent vegetal note holds it back. ——M.S.(12/15/2003)—— 83

A good value, the 1998 Dolcetto d'Alba offers that varietal's vivid, fresh, cranberry and cherry fruit with a slight almond note to its flavors. Ripe and sexy, with no hard edges, it can be drunk over the next several years. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Based on the 1997 Dolcettos I tasted, this vintage may be as great as the Piedmontese are claiming. The early-released Dolcettos possess dense purple colors, gobs of ripe fruit, and good freshness and underlying acidity. This effort from Carretta is a velvety, medium-bodied, succulent 1997 Dolcetto d'Alba with plenty of chocolate and berry-tinged fruit. A delicious, fun wine, with a slight tanginess in the lush finish, it should be consumed over the next year. A Leonardo Locasio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620