This wine is one of the protagonists of the Chianti Rufina denomination and it symbolizes much of the innovation and hard work currently underway to revive and relaunch the Rufina appellation. There is an inner elegance here that comes across as cassis and dry mineral with grilled herb and licorice at the back. The 2012 Chianti Rufina Riserva Lastricato is a wine that will appeal to Sangiovese purists. The finish is silky and fine. Stainless steel, oak vessels and underground terra cotta amphorae are all used to make this excellent value wine.

Showing a bold level of power and concentration, the 2010 Chianti Rufina Riserva Lastricato is a dark and deep expression of normally lighthearted Chianti Rufina. That muscle and power is followed by graceful elegance with pretty tones of pressed flower and black fruit. The mouthfeel is streamlined and tight. Drink this wine within the next five years.

Lastricato Riserva is a compact and traditional wine with fine texture, a tight feel and bright aromas of forest berry, white cherry and almond skin. Those elegant, subtle qualities make this a good selection for chicken or white meat. ——M.L.(4/1/2011)—— 88