Cedar, white pepper, cured meats and mulled red and black fruits define Yves' 2014 C?te R?tie Terres Sombres (750 cases) and this medium-bodied, fresh, even juicy effort has fine tannin, solid mid-palate depth and a good finish. It's certainly made in a fresher style and I think has a touch too much acidity, but it is a charming effort that will keep for a decade.

The most impressive of the trio is the 2012 Cote Rotie Terres Sombres! A smoking blend of 100% Syrah that will see 18 months in 60% new French oak, it boasts knockout aromas of black raspberry, cassis, violets, licorice and crushed rock. Medium to full-bodied, beautifully pure and elegant, with fine tannin emerging on the finish, it has loads of potential, as well as upwards of two decades of longevity. Yves releases two cuvees from Cornas, and I found the quality consistent in 2012, yet preferred the Vires release by a fair margin in 2011. There are three Saint Joseph cuvees in red: the Les Pierres Seches, which comes from sand and granite soils around the town of Chavanay; the L'Amarybelle, which comes from high density, terraced plantings of older vines; and lastly, the Les Serines, which comes from the oldest vines of the estate and is the only cuvee to see new oak. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant Ltd., Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

The richest of the three, the 2011 Cote Rotie Terres Sombres (100% Syrah aged 18 months in 60% new French oak) offers up classic aromas and flavors of rendered bacon fat, wild herbs, olive and creamy black raspberry fruit. Medium to full-bodied, with good richness, it has bright (almost racy, which is something to watch) acidity, fine tannin and excellent length. Give it another year and drink bottles over the following decade. Yves releases two cuvees from Cornas, and I found the quality consistent in 2012, yet preferred the Vires release by a fair margin in 2011. There are three Saint Joseph cuvees in red: the Les Pierres Seches, which comes from sand and granite soils around the town of Chavanay; the L'Amarybelle, which comes from high density, terraced plantings of older vines; and lastly, the Les Serines, which comes from the oldest vines of the estate and is the only cuvee to see new oak. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant Ltd., Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Another solid wine from winemaker Yves Cuilleron is the 2006 Cote Rotie Terres Sombres. Made from three different parcels (all schist soils) and aged in 50% new barrels, it has a sweet and youthful bouquet of green olives, bacon fat, smoked beef and mature red and black fruits. It’s not a huge wine, yet it excels on its charm and has juicy, bright acidity on the finish. I would plan on drinking bottles over the coming 4-5 years.

The 2005 Cote Rotie Terres Sombres has a denser ruby/purple color, more of the floral, black cherry, smoky character of Cote Rotie with some noticeable new oak. The wine offers good acidity, big, muscular, medium to full-bodied flavors, and a firm, structured finish. Give it 2-3 years, then keep your fingers crossed and hope all the tannins get absorbed. It should last for 12-15 more years.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant Ltd., Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990