Cuilleron is a brilliant white wine maker, but he also displays a deft touch when it comes to making elegant, supple, pure, attractive reds. Cuilleron's 1994 Cote Rotie is from a tiny 4-acre parcel of hillside vineyards. He added 10% Viognier, which accounts for its succulent, sexy, ostentatious nose of black fruits, honeysuckle and apricots. Medium-bodied and elegant, with sweet, round fruit, this wine should improve for 5-7 years, perhaps justifying an even higher rating. It is a seductive, graceful style of Cote Rotie for drinking in its first 7-8 years of life. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Cuilleron is a brilliant white wine maker, but he also displays a deft touch when it comes to making elegant, supple, pure, attractive reds. It should come as no surprise that Cuilleron's 1993 Cote Rotie is a lean, hard, tough, compressed wine with little charm or ripeness. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990