The 2004 Vin de Pays (mostly Clairette) displays attractive notes of white citrus, underripe bananas, and a hint of flowers in a medium-bodied, deliciously fruity style. Chateau des Tours is the family estate of Emmanuel Reynaud, the nephew of the late Jacques Reynaud as well as the winemaker at Chateau Rayas since 1997. His Cotes du Rhone and Vacqueyras are two of the best value picks in the southern Rhone. His 2005s are all successful. A blend of 50% Grenache and the rest Counoise and CinsaultImporter: Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

The 1998 Vin de Pays blanc is a surprisingly fat, but straightforward, chunky effort with plenty of flavor. It is the type of southern whites that are much better with food than when drunk alone. Enjoy it over the next several years. Importer: Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400