The 2008 Pinot Gris gives subtle poached pear and peach aromas plus an under-ripe pineapple lift and some spiciness. Crisp acid is balanced by 6 grams per liter of residual sugar and cuts through the viscous texture. It has a concentrated medium-full body, finishing long. Drink it now through 2013. I generally agree with Neal Martin’s previous comment about some of Cloudy Bay’s wines produced over the last couple of vintages perhaps being “a notch behind other Marlborough producers”. However, I did find some very good wines to recommend during my recent visit. Trust me, my visit was not typically befitting of the fanfare laid-on by a Champagne House with the soft light, foie gras canapes and gentle tinkle of classical music playing in the background. White winemaker Tim Heath and I stood tasting in a stoically sterile white tasting room and deconstructed his recent work over the course of just an hour or so. I’ll cut to the chase and state that in the cold, hard, clinical light of that tasting room, I think that Tim is making some very positive moves towards filling some very big shoes.Importer: Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575

The 2007 Pinot Gris was two-thirds barrel fermented using wild yeasts and one-third in stainless steel using two clones from Alsace. The nose is quite pretty with touches of wild honey, pear drops, apricot and white flowers. The palate is medium-bodied, nice acidity, nothing spectacular but with subtle touches of nectarine and a little jasmine. Fine. Big changes at Cloudy Bay, having parted ways with founding winemaker Kevin Judd who stays on as consultant and relinquishing the services of senior winemaker Eveline Fraser in April 2009. I have expressed my reservations with this iconic producer in WA176 and returning one year later I returned as open-minded as ever, yet I still find that their portfolio is a notch behind other Marlborough producers.Importer: Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY