Produced from an assemblage of tiny parcels of Pouilly-Fuisse vineyards in Vergisson farmed by the Barrauds, the 2004 Pouilly-Fuisse Alliance reveals a lovely nose of quartz, minerals, and spices. Medium-bodied, focused, and satin-textured, it displays an expressive, resiny core of minerals, chalk, and spices. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Importer: A Peter Vezan Selection, Paris fax #011-33-1-42-55-42-93, various importers including David Hinkle, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266-6585, and Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Lilies, assorted white flowers, minerals, slate, and spices can be discerned in the nose of the 2002 Alliance Vergisson. A medium-bodied wine of considerable breadth, precision, flesh, and density, it coats the palate with minerals, slate, flint, sap, apples, and hints of white peaches. This wine has outstanding ripeness, balance, and length. Drink it over the next 7 years. Importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910; the other wines are Peter Vezan Selections (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42-65-42-93), various importers including Michael Skurnik in NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The 2001 Pouilly-Fuisse Alliance de Vergisson is a blend of three parcels (the average vine age is between 30 and 45 years old), each with a distinctive terroir, and each owned by a different neighbor of the Barrauds in the tiny, picturesque hillside village of Vergisson. Minerals, gravel, stones, and pears can be found in its gorgeous aromatics and flavor profile. This wine has lovely depth of fruit, power, and purity, as well as a long, graceful finish. Drink it over the next 6 years.The 2001 is the debut of a new wine for the Barrauds, called "Alliance de Vergisson." As with most French vignerons, the Barrauds have "fermage" (rental) contracts with small landowners. Until 2000, the Barrauds sold off the wines they made to negociants because they didn't have room in their cellar to barrel-age it. Now, with their newly expanded cave, they can barrel-age and bottle their entire production, great news for consumers. Importer: David Hinkle / Peter Vezan, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266-6585; the other wines are Peter Vezan Selections (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42-65-42-93), various importers including Michael Skurnik in NY; tel. (516) 677-9300