A sleeper of the vintage, the 2010 Cotes du Rhone St.-Esprit Blanc is dominated by its Viognier component. It offers aromas of white peaches, apricots and spring flowers as well as medium body, good acidity, excellent precision and abundant character. Enjoy this fresh white over the next 12-18 months. As I noted last year, there has been tremendous progress and a definitive amelioration of quality with respect to the Chateauneuf du Papes being produced by Delas.Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 286-2000

5 Predominantly Grenache Blanc, this surprisingly mineral-laden white displays hints of graphite that underscore modest pear and melon fruit. It’s powerful yet restrained, and would be at home with a wide variety of fish or chicken dishes. Drink now.——J.C.(9/29/2011)—— 88

A dash of Viognier in the blend gives aromatic lift to this Cotes du Rhone, which tastes like honeyed peaches over sun-warmed stones. It's full and broad without being overblown, but seems to be teetering on the edge, with signs of age starting to creep in. Drink up.——J.C.(4/1/2010)—— 89