The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux displays notes of plummy fruit, dried flowers, baking chocolate and spices on the nose, followed by a medium-bodied, velvety palate that's charming and open-knit, lent definition by a bright line of acid.

Aromas of cherries, cassis, spiced plums and truffle introduce the 2016 Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux, a medium-bodied, pure wine with good depth at the core, melting tannins and a lovely line of animating acidity. It's an elegant middleweight from Anne Gros that will drink well in its youth.

The 2015 Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux has a very harmonious bouquet with redcurrant, cranberry and blackcurrant fruit that is well defined, conveying fine mineralité (perhaps more than the Chambolle-Musigny at this stage). The palate is very well balanced with supple tannin, veering more towards red fruit here with a harmonious and tensile, raspberry preserve and strawberry finish. Excellent - this comes recommended.

The 2014 Vosne-Romanée les Barreaux comes from vines that actually neighbor those of Les Varoilles lieu-dit in Richebourg. It has a stoic, slightly earthy nose at first, nicely defined, with a faint marine influence coming through. The palate is well balanced with juicy red and black fruit, not overly complex but with appreciable succulence on the easy going finish.

From vines planted way back in 1903, the 2012 Vosne-Romanee Les Barreaux has a very elegant and pure bouquet, the fruit profile a tad darker and more introspective than the Chambolle, but very delineated. The palate is crisp and vibrant on the entry with blood orange infusing the dark cherry and blackcurrant fruit, with fine precision on the almost understated but classy finish. After modest success with her 2011s, it was great to come back to this domaine to find eternally youthful pixie-like Anne Gros back on form with a gaggle of gorgeous 2012s. Anne, the cousin of Bernard, Michel and Anne-Francoise, is one of the most conscientious winemakers I know, somebody who lives for her family, whether that is her three children or her vines. She exacts a meticulous picking, which in 2012 commenced on 21 September and lasted over three weeks until the 15 October up in her “Hautes Cotes” vines. I have written several times about this domaine, which I visited on my first Burgundy trip back in 1997. They have a slightly modern sheen like her cousin Bernard Gros, but here they are slightly more nuanced and terroir-driven. Quantities are small and sought after, and in 2012 her piece de resistance might not be the Richebourg, rather one of the best Clos de Vougeot wines of the vintage. But do not ignore either her excellent Hautes Cotes de Nuits white or red (or indeed her superb joint venture with partner Jean-Paul Tollot down in sunny Minnervois.) Importers: various importers (go to http://www.anne-gros.com/en/in-the-world.html) and several importers in both the US and UK.