Notes of orange oil, citrus blossom, fresh bread and smoke introduce the 2019 Meursault Clos du Cromin, a medium to full-bodied, textural and enveloping wine that's rich and gourmand, concluding with a saline finish. This is a gastronomic wine from this early-ripening site nestled in the village of Meursault.

The 2017 Meursault Clos du Cromin is lovely, wafting from the glass with aromas of peach, pear, roasted nuts and anise. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, textural and gourmand, with a broad attack, good depth at the core and incisive acids that temper the inherent unctuosity typical of wines from this site.

The 2016 Meursault Clos du Cromin is usually a blend of young vines planted in 1998 with 90-year-old vines, though this year the latter was completely frosted. Nevertheless, it has a satisfying bouquet of dried honey, almond and hazelnut, gaining intensity all the time in the glass. The palate is fresh on the entry with a fine bead of acidity, though it is not a complex or “ambitious” Meursault. In that sense, it knows its place and retains freshness and typicity without striving for complexity or razor-sharp delineation. Drink it over the next 5-6 years.

The 2015 Meursault Clos du Cromin, half the vines planted by the brothers' grandfather 90 years ago, has a slightly muffled bouquet, although it appears to gain clarity with time—developing scents of shucked oyster shells and lemon. There is a lot of horsepower on the palate, a little richer than I was expecting, yet maintaining fine balance, a lovely salinity coming through on the finish that urges you back for another sip. Not as nuanced as the 2014 Clos du Cromin, but this is still a well-made Meursault.

The 2014 Meursault Clos du Cromin, which includes old vines planted in 1927 and young vines planted in 2000, has a delightful bouquet that is understated at first, coquettish and reluctantly revealing yellow plum, cold granite and flinty notes, more Puligny-like than Meursault at the moment. The palate is very well defined with a keen thread of acidity, well-poised fresh lime, green apple and a touch of gooseberry towards the persistent finish. This is a superb expression of this village cru.