Pure and complete, the 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques exhibits aromas of sweet red berries, potpourri, blood orange, spices and vine smoke, followed by a medium to full-bodied, seamless and fleshy palate, its deep core of fruit framed by sweet, velvety tannins. This shows terrific potential.

The 2016 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St Jacques comes from vines of the same age, clone, rootstock and massale selection as the Cazetiers. It has a more introverted bouquet than the Cazetiers, with dark fruit, broody but compelling. This seriously needs time in bottle. The palate is very well balanced with a confit-like entry, a silver bead of acidity, subtle notes of fig infusing the red berry fruit on the finish, later quince and graphite coming through with time. The persistence is astonishing here, still lingering in the mouth by the time Bruno is pouring the next sample.

Bursting with aromas of cedar, raw cocoa, orange rind, rose petal, red cherries and dried currants, the 2015 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St Jacques is medium to full-bodied, fragrant and supple, with melting tannins, a sappy core of fruit and tangy balancing acids. It's a perfumed, beautifully balanced wine that I marked down a few points simply because it struck me as somewhat stylized, so my score will likely look conservative in a few years' time.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, the 2014 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St Jacques has a stunning, pure, life-affirming bouquet that is just pure class and delivers exactly what you expect from a vineyard of this caliber (and price!). The palate is medium-bodied with succulent, pure red berry fruit tinged with spice and a hint of Seville orange marmalade. The tannins are filigree and the harmony toward the finish makes you giddy. This is a fabulous Clos Saint Jacques from Bruno Clair that challenges Rousseau as the pick of the five growers this year. Tasted September 2017.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St Jacques was showing more reduction on the nose, clearly not as expressive as Jean-Marie Fourrier's Clos Saint-Jacques, the new oak more present though there is sufficient dark fruit underneath. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, plenty of dark plum and blackberry fruit although the oak feels a tad more conspicuous than its peers. There is some finesse on the finish, but the winemaking is more prominent at the moment than the vineyard. It feels a little static compared to its four "CSJ siblings" although it does improve in the glass. Tasted September 2016.