The 2020 Vosne-Romanée Les Champs Perdrix has turned out beautifully, revealing aromas of sweet cherries and raspberries mingled with notions of rose petal, bergamot and exotic spices. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with powdery tannins, tangy acids and a saline finish, it transcends the heat of the vintage.

The 2016 Vosne Romanee les Champs Perdrix has a slightly smudged, stemmy bouquet that needs just a touch more delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with some hardness and obduracy marking the tannin, quite Morey-like and just missing the finesse one expects from a Vosne-Romanée on the finish. This is often not my pick of the range from Bruno Clair and despite its shortcomings, I feel it is still a step in the right direction from previous vintages.

The 2015 Vosne-Romanée les Champs Perdrix was another wine from Bruno Clair that was strangely missing some fruit on the nose - most unexpected, given the growing season. The palate is better with crunchy red berry fruit, fine acidity and a welcome touch of sour cherry on the finish. Hopefully the aromatics will find their voice by the time of bottling.

The 2014 Vosne Romanée les Champs Perdrix has a simple but feisty blackcurrant and boysenberry-scented nose that calms down in the glass and attains a respectable sense of cohesion and harmony. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, elegant in the mouth but just missing that complexity and tension on the easy drinking finish.