The 2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes has the most compelling bouquet of Bruno Colin's range (at least the ones that I tasted). This displays very fine nuance, lively citrus fruit and apple-blossom with a gentle undercurrent of mineralité. The palate is very well balanced and harmonious. The acidity is nigh on perfectly pitched whilst the finish has real verve and salinity. This is a great 2014 from the domaine--chapeau!

The 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru les Chenevottes has a slightly more malic bouquet than the Vergers, more Puligny-like in style. The palate is balanced with crisp acidity, fine mineralité with orange zest and citrus lemon forming the effervescent finish. This should be a pretty Chassagne-Montrachet once in bottle.

The 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes has an interesting, attractive nose that is cut from the same cloth as the Les Vergers, with citrus peel, a hint of aniseed and tangerine. The palate is well-balanced with a smear of dried honey on the entry. The acidity is nicely judged, though at present the Les Vergers has a little more energy and animation. But that should take nothing away from this very commendable white Burgundy. Drink now-2025. Bruno Colin is the son of Michel Colin, who retired in 2003 and split the domaine between his two sons. There are approximately 8 hectares of vine, including a healthy supply of old vine material. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524 and also through Goedhuis & Co. (UK)

The 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes is beautifully layered from start to finish. The Chenevottes is all about textural silkiness and length. All the elements are nicely balanced throughout. Harmony and pure equilibrium are what stand out most. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Bruno Colin reported that in 2010 his yields were down 10-15%, but adds some of his oldest plots were hit even harder, and came in 25-30% lower than normal. Overall, this is a solid set of wines, with plenty of vintage and site-specific character. The Bourgogne, St. Aubin Le Charmois and Chassagne villages were bottled before the 2011 harvest, while the rest of the wines were bottled in March 2012. Importers: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 299-2600, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524