The 2018 Meursault Chaumes des Perrières opens in the glass with scents of citrus zest, white flowers, toasted sesame and wet stones, framed by a light touch of reduction. Medium to full-bodied, chiseled and incisive, it's tightly wound, with excellent concentration, racy acids and chalky structure.

Lalou Bize-Leroy produced less than a barrel of the 2007 Meursault Chaumes des Perrières, a beautiful wine evocative of crisp orchard fruit, citrus oil, white flowers and fresh pastry. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and elegant, it's a seamless, complete wine of compelling purity and precision.

Lush pears and apples are found in the aromatics of the 2000 Meursault Chaumes de Perrieres. Medium-bodied and opulent, it is a soft, expressive wine filled with fresh white fruits, minerals, and spices. This is a supple, highly expressive offering for drinking over the next 8 years. Importer: Martine's Wines, San Raphael, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

This exceptionally rare Meursault from Lalou Bize Leroy has aged in sublime fashion. The 1999 Meursault Chaume de Perrieres has a luminescent silvery hue in the glass. The aromatics are breathtaking in terms of tension and mineralité with scents of wet stone, honeysuckle, brioche and hazelnut that just become more and more intense with aeration. The palate is supremely well-balanced with perfect acidity, undiminished tension and seductive notes of almond, custard creams and whipped cream on the long, mineral-laden finish. These notes were written before the identity was revealed and it is no more and no less than a stunning Meursault at its peak, though on this performance I cannot envisage its decline for another ten years.