The Bila-Haut 2009 Cotes du Roussillon-Villages Lesquerde s.p. is from selected parcels (hence its initials) of young Syrah on granite, along with around 10% Grenache. It was fermented in demi-muid, then after a time moved to tank, whence I tasted it. Scents of cassis, black raspberry, and smoked meat inform the nose and an especially rich, silken palate with notes of mint chocolate and candied violet adding to a long-finishing performance of compelling allure, even if it lacks quite the vibrancy or multi-dimensionality of the very best wines in the present collection. I imagine this will bear watching for at least 6-8 years. It's not hard to understand why Chapoutier of all people would seek to produce a - indeed, this would probably be the - great Syrah in Roussillon, and he looks to be well on the way! Michel Chapoutier's Roussillon domaine - for further details on which, consult my report in issue 183 - has taken on considerable additional acreage since I filed that last report, resulting in among other things a fascinating white cuvee in what had previously been an all-red portfolio, and the inclusion of more fruit - in black as well as white - from spectacularly-situated high-elevation, granite-rich, late-ripening sites in Lesquerde, well to the west of Latour-de-France. Gilles Troullier continues to direct vinification as well as viticulture (here biodynamic) like the seasoned maestro that he is. With few exceptions, the wines sing with clarity, purity, and complexity, not to mention performing well above what on the basis of price (save for that of the "v.i.t." cuvee) would deceptively appear to be their station. (For Chapoutier's wines from Banyuls, see under his own name in this report, as that is how those are labeled.)Importer: H. B. Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (917) 402-0456