The 2009 Cotes du Roussillon-Villages Les Vignes de Bila-Haut represents a tank-raised blend of Grenache, Carignan, and Syrah from gneiss and schist sites in various parts of the Agly Valley - to that extent like its earlier counterparts - but with the addition of fruit grown on granite in Lesquerde, thus preserving this cuvee's role as a collaboration across the estate's range of sites. Blueberry in fresh and distilled form; fennel and licorice; almond and cherry pit; crushed stone and peat entertain nose and palate, with glyceral richness helping to ameliorate the considerable grain of tannin, and leading to a finish of satisfying length, if not the energy and impeccable balance that characterized the 2007 rendition. This excellent value should drink well for at least the next 2-3 years. (Unfortunately, I was unable to taste the 2008, of which the domaine itself could not find a bottle.) Michel Chapoutier's Roussillon domaine - for further details on which, consult my report in issue 183 - has taken on considerable additional acreage since I filed that last report, resulting in among other things a fascinating white cuvee in what had previously been an all-red portfolio, and the inclusion of more fruit - in black as well as white - from spectacularly-situated high-elevation, granite-rich, late-ripening sites in Lesquerde, well to the west of Latour-de-France. Gilles Troullier continues to direct vinification as well as viticulture (here biodynamic) like the seasoned maestro that he is. With few exceptions, the wines sing with clarity, purity, and complexity, not to mention performing well above what on the basis of price (save for that of the "v.i.t." cuvee) would deceptively appear to be their station. (For Chapoutier's wines from Banyuls, see under his own name in this report, as that is how those are labeled.)Importer: H. B. Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (917) 402-0456

A tank-raised blend of Grenache, Carignan, and Syrah from gneiss and schist sites in various parts of the Agly Valley, Chapoutier’s 2007 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Les Vignes de Bila-Haut possesses an alluring aroma and lovely, deep richness of black raspberry, cherry, and roasted meat, augmented by toasted pecans, coriander, and resinous herbs. With rarified tannins and a vividly juicy fresh fruit presence, this represents an irresistible introduction to its genre for immediate enjoyment, yet the structure here is tightly-enough knit, the balance impeccable, the entire performance loaded with energy, so I see no reason to doubt that this amazing value will be a delight 2-3 years from now as well. Michel Chapoutier’s outpost in Roussillon – begun in 1993 and moved into its spacious current facilities in 2000 – operates under the immediate direction of exceptionally talented winemaker Gilles Troullier. With around 150 acres and more than 30 parcels of largely old vines under contract (including some exciting new material in 2008) this is a major source for some of the most carefully crafted wines and among the finest values in the region. It is also one of many French addresses where there has been a recent move in the direction of larger barrels (especially demi-muids) and to more sophisticated forms of concrete, and a corresponding de-emphasis of stainless steel tanks and (225-liter) barriques. Troullier opines that after six years of biodynamic regimen on these wines (which includes working many of the parcels by horse) there has recently been a “crescendo in quality.” Without hazarding an opinion on its causes, that crescendo certainly had my nose and palate ringing when I left here! For reviews of other Roussillon Chapoutier projects, please see under Agly Brothers as well as Chapoutier.Importer: H. B. Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (917) 402-0456

Michel Chapoutier’s outpost in the Roussillon is worthy of a detour. The 2005 Vignes de Bila Haut seems dominated by Grenache with plenty of kirsch liqueur, spice box, and resiny pine forest notes. It is a medium-bodied, elegant, fresh wine to drink over the next 5-6 years. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900 (Reviewed by RMP)