The 2010 Cotes du Roussillon Les Vignes de Bila-Haut in blanc represents tank-raised Grenache Blanc, Macabeu, and Grenache Gris, some from chalky soils around Latour-de-France, but largely from granite heights in Lesquerde. A strikingly colorful aromatic display features pink grapefruit, peony, honeysuckle, and golden raspberry, all of which combine on a juicy, mouthwateringly saline palate, finishing with superb refreshment and length. What a fine introduction to Roussillon whites and terrifically versatile accompaniment at table this will make over the next 2-3 years if not beyond! (And given the price for the 2009, we can expect this 2010 to represent an outstanding value.) "Whites were good in 2010," remarks Troullier with evident understatement. "But you needed to harvest early enough," he adds. Michel Chapoutier's Roussillon domaine - for further details on which, consult my report in issue 183 - has taken on considerable additional acreage since I filed that last report, resulting in among other things a fascinating white cuvee in what had previously been an all-red portfolio, and the inclusion of more fruit - in black as well as white - from spectacularly-situated high-elevation, granite-rich, late-ripening sites in Lesquerde, well to the west of Latour-de-France. Gilles Troullier continues to direct vinification as well as viticulture (here biodynamic) like the seasoned maestro that he is. With few exceptions, the wines sing with clarity, purity, and complexity, not to mention performing well above what on the basis of price (save for that of the "v.i.t." cuvee) would deceptively appear to be their station. (For Chapoutier's wines from Banyuls, see under his own name in this report, as that is how those are labeled.)Importer: H. B. Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (917) 402-0456

Alluring scents of peony, honeysuckle, musk, pineapple, apricot, and tangerine on the 2009 Cotes du Roussillon Les Vignes de Bila-Haut segue into an oily-textured yet sleek and generously juicy palate. Bitterness of apricot kernel and tangerine rind adds grip to the finish but somewhat cuts off the flow of juices, resulting in only a modest sense of sheer refreshment. Still, this is a gorgeously-scented first effort that will find plenty of favor at table over the next couple of years - and perhaps for longer. Michel Chapoutier's Roussillon domaine - for further details on which, consult my report in issue 183 - has taken on considerable additional acreage since I filed that last report, resulting in among other things a fascinating white cuvee in what had previously been an all-red portfolio, and the inclusion of more fruit - in black as well as white - from spectacularly-situated high-elevation, granite-rich, late-ripening sites in Lesquerde, well to the west of Latour-de-France. Gilles Troullier continues to direct vinification as well as viticulture (here biodynamic) like the seasoned maestro that he is. With few exceptions, the wines sing with clarity, purity, and complexity, not to mention performing well above what on the basis of price (save for that of the "v.i.t." cuvee) would deceptively appear to be their station. (For Chapoutier's wines from Banyuls, see under his own name in this report, as that is how those are labeled.)Importer: H. B. Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (917) 402-0456