Offering up aromas of citrus zest, white flowers, orange blossom and honeysuckle, the 2020 Viré-Clessé Quintaine is medium-bodied, satiny and vibrant, with racy acids and chalky structure, standing out as an especially charming, fine-boned rendition of this routinely excellent bottling.

Wafting from the glass with notes of honeyed orchard fruit, elderflowers and beeswax, Gautier Thevenet's 2018 Viré-Clessé Quintaine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and succulent, with a sweet core of fruit, lively acids and a long, saline finish. The vintage means that this is especially charming out of the gates, but it's likely to be impressively long-lived all the same.

The 2016 Viré-Clessé Quintaine is showing very well, offering up a pretty bouquet of orange blossom, honeycomb and white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and expressive, with good concentration, succulent acids and a fragrant finish. Charming and elegantly exotic, this will offer ten to 15 years of gratification.

The 2015 Viré-Clessé Quintaine is lovely, unfurling in the glass with aromas of honeyed peaches, almond paste and exotic top notes of beeswax and coconut. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and powerful, more muscular than the 2014, with considerable concentration and succulent balancing acids, concluding with a long finish. Despite its large-scaled format, it's beautifully balanced, even elegant.