The 2016 Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru has more richness and intensity than the Corton-Bressandes at this early stage, with layers of black cherry and raspberry coulis, brown spices and sous-bois surfacing with time. There is certainly good complexity here. The palate is fresh and detailed on the entry, fine-grained tannin, well-judged acidity and a lively, judiciously spiced finish that feels long and caressing. Bon vin.

The 2015 Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru has more finesse than the premier crus from Volnay and Pommard that preceded it during my tasting at the domaine, quite floral with pure dark black cherry and hints of anise developing with aeration. The palate has a gentle grip in the mouth. The tannins feel firm lending this masculinity, although there appears to be sufficient fruit to back it up. There is pleasant saline aftertaste in situ although I would like to see more finesse developing during the remainder of its barrel maturation.

The 2014 Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru comes from 1.45 hectares of vine planted in 1979 and 1987, and it matured in 30% new oak. This offers more red berry fruit on the nose compared to the Corton-Bressandes, perhaps more generous and rounded, softer even. The palate is again very supple on the entry with quite rich black cherry and raspberry confit notes, with hints of raisin and fig in the background; it is a grand cru that just wants to give. I would have preferred a little more restraint on the finish, but it is certainly a Corton that will satiate the senses.

The 2013 Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru is tight-lipped on the nose, but there is plenty of ripe dark cherry and cassis fruit waiting to spring forth. There is fine clarity and focus here. The palate is medium-bodied and much spicier than the Corton Bressandes: black pepper, cloves and a touch of thyme and here it fans out beautifully on the finish. What a gorgeous Clos du Roi in the making!

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Corton Clos du Roi from Domaine de la Pousse d'Or is showing a fair amount of new oak on the nose that needs another couple of years to be subsumed. The palate is medium-bodied with a strong saline entry, rounded in the mouth with plenty of extraction, though it requires more detail, more tension on the finish. It just seems rather heavy-handed at the moment although I suspect it will repay cellaring as that carapace of oak melts away.