Another good value is the 2014 Cairanne la Ventabren, which is 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 10% Carignan that’s aged all in concrete. Medium-bodied, moderately concentrated, with vibrant acidity and a clean, classic feel, it gives up plenty of pepper, jammy blackberry and raspberry fruit, and hints of violets. It too should drink well right on release and last for 5-6 years.

Moving to the 2012 Cairannes, the Le Ventabren is a fresh, lively and obviously well-made effort that has lots of blackberry, earth and cracked pepper in its medium-bodied, textured style. This is another beauty that sees only concrete tank, no oak, and represents a naked expression of this beautiful terroir. It’s always a solid value and should drink nicely for 4-5 years.

A delicious, layered and fruit forward effort, the 2011 Cairanne Ventabren is loaded with sweet berry fruit, spice-box, garrigue and hints of licorice on the nose. This flows to a medium-bodied, soft and supple palate that has solid purity of fruit, good mid-palate depth and a good finish. Enjoy it over the coming 4-6 years. Importer: Petit Pois Corp. Moorestown, NJ; Tel. (856) 608-9644

The outstanding 2010 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Cairanne La Ventabren (a blend of 20% Syrah, 70% Grenache and 10% Carignan) offers crushed pepper, black cherry, black raspberry and loamy, sandy soil characteristics, some background minerality, decent acidity, a dense ruby/purple color and full body. This sumptuous Cairanne should be enjoyed over the next 7-8 years. With 160 acres of vines, most of them planted on hillsides in Rasteau, this is a serious estate that remains somewhat under the radar. It is run by Gilles Ferran, who graduated first in his class at the University of Montpellier's School of Oenology (the number two graduate that year was his best friend, Philippe Cambie, who now consults at Escaravailles). Importer: Jeff Welburn Selections, New York, NY; tel: (212) 247-2252; www.jeffwelburn.com

Spice, plum, black fruit and tar aromas. Soft, summer fruit, good weight and elegant finish. Needs time to shed some fat and show its muscle.