The 2005 Chardonnay was 50% barrel fermented and 50% tank fermented. Light gold colored, it delivers a smoky, toasty, butterscotch, and poached pear perfume. This leads to a medium- to full-bodied, supple-textured, ripe wine with a broad palate and lively acidity providing uplift. It is well-integrated and has a lengthy finish. Drink this stylish Chardonnay over the next five years. Domaine Drouhin has been on a roll since the 2002 vintage. Dare I say it, the winery seems to be making better wine in Oregon than they are in France. Tel: (503) 864-2700; www.domainedrouhin.com. Also tasted: 2006 Chardonnay “Arthur (89), 2004 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley (80)

Elegant floral and mineral aromas are displayed by the harmonious, light to medium-bodied 2001 Chardonnay. Spiced butter and minerals can be discerned in its seamless, broad character. Drink it over the next 2 years. Tel. (503) 864-2700

Two bottles of Drouhin's 2000 Chardonnay were tasted during my visit to Oregon in August and they were strangely different. The first reveals smoky, oak-tinged poached pears in the nose and a lovely core of vanilla-infused minerals. It displayed excellent depth and a medium-bodied, satiny texture (it was rated 89). The second, tried a couple of days later, had a floral, herbal nose and a light to medium-bodied character with a tight, soapy-flavored personality (meriting a question mark). On the basis that a wine cannot ever taste better than it actually is I've scored it based on the first bottle but am concerned about the discrepancy. Tel. (503) 864-2700

The cream-scented 1999 Chardonnay has a light to medium-bodied personality with lactic, vanilla yogurt-like flavors intermingled with butter and toast. Tel. (503) 864-2700