The 2019 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes was surprisingly tightly wound when I tasted it, revealing aromas of pear, orange oil and freshly baked bread, followed by a medium to full-bodied, lively palate that will likely unfurl with further maturation.

The 2016 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes comes from parcels that Fran?ois said were relatively unscathed by the frost, reduced by around 20% in the end. It has a sorbet-fresh bouquet: orange zest mixed with citrus fruit, even a hint of nougat tucked in there, all very fresh and conveying a sense of energy. The palate is well balanced with a fine thread of acidity, saline in the mouth with impressive weight and tension towards the powerful and Charmes-like finish. This is another excellent wine from Fran?ois and I love the sappiness that lingers on the aftertaste long after the wine has bid adieu.

The 2015 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes offers up an elegantly leesy nose of ripe pear, kumquat and nutmeg, followed by a medium to full-bodied, succulent palate, with a glossy attack, decent depth, and a delicate, flavorful finish. This Charmes avoids any excess in the 2015 vintage and should offer a great deal of immediate appeal.

The 2013 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes has a more austere and reserved bouquet compared to the Poruzots, a little truculent at the moment. The palate has a ripe entry with a touch of pepper enlivening proceedings, a crisp line of acidity and plenty of spice sprinkled over the finish. The aromatics need to find their voice, but once they do, this should be very fine.

There is not Vieille Vignes version of the 2012 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes this year since hail reduced it down to just seven cases. It is more taciturn on the nose compared to the Poruzots but rigorous aeration reveals a hidden core of spicy aromas. The palate is well-balanced with a core of waxy fruit. It is quite pithy compared to Poruzots, although without the same delineation and tension on the finish. It is just missing the pizzazz at the moment, but let us see how it performs in bottle. I have been visiting Francois Mikulski for a number of years. This is a reliable address for Meursault, although like numerous others his crops were depleted in 2012, resulting in the absence of some of this cuvees including some of his Meursault village crus that were blended together. Hail was also significant, reducing Volnay Santenots down to a negligible eight hectoliters per hectare. I tasted his wines from pre-blended bottles that were as close to the final blend as Francois could estimate. Importer: A Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70