The 2019 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru is showing very well, wafting from the glass with notes of sweet wild berries, plums, loamy soil, peonies, raw cocoa and violets. Medium to full-bodied, rich but fine-boned, it's lively and mineral, with beautifully refined tannins and a perfumed finish. As I wrote last year, this is a Gevrey that nods to stereotypes of Chambolle in personality.

Another of the high points of this year's range is the 2018 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru, a beautiful wine that soars from the glass with aromas of sweet wild berries, dried flowers, peonies, soil tones and cinnamon. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, pure and precise, with an ample core, supple tannins and lively acids, concluding with a perfumed finish. This is certainly a Gevrey that nods to Chambolle in personality.

The 2017 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru is superb, unfurling in the glass with a stunning bouquet that mingles aromas of smoky wild berries and cherries with savory bass notes of dark chocolate, grilled game and rich soil. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, dense and multidimensional, with excellent depth and concentration, lively acids and a long, penetrating finish.

The 2016 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru is labelled under Christophe's own name as usual. He told me that it was impacted by around 20% by the frost, unlike Mugneret-Gibourg or Rousseau’s that were both spared. Christophe posited that this might be due to the weeds between the rows exacerbating frost damage. It has a tightly wound bouquet at first, very mineral-driven, with cold limestone permeating the pure dark berry fruit. There is just a very slight shrillness here. The palate is medium-bodied with a strong saline influence right from the beginning. It has a firm and almost foursquare structure, and yet there is outstanding focus. Quibbling, it is not quite as persistent as the 2015 Ruchottes-Chambertin last year, then again, you are not going to refuse any, if offered.

Tasted blind, Christophe Roumier's 2015 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru was especially impressive, unwinding in the glass with aromas of sweet wild berries, dried roses, raw cocoa and espresso roast. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with wonderful depth, dimension and concentration, underpinned by a lovely line of acidity. The combination of amplitude, power and vibrancy make this very special indeed. I won't touch any of my bottles for a decade and would counsel readers to do the same.