Unwinding in the glass with aromas of raspberries, smoky cherries, rich soil tones and warm spices, Roumier's 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière is medium to full-bodied, lively and vibrant, with a fleshy core of fruit framed by youthfully chalky tannins that assert themselves on the finish. The most underrated wine in the Roumier cellar, this is a fine prospect for the patient.

Revisited from bottle, the 2018 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière offers up aromas of cherries, raspberries, Indian spices and creamy new oak. Medium to full-bodied, ample and muscular, it's firm and structured, with rich, chalky tannins and a ripe core of fruit.

The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière is a real success, and decidedly reminiscent of the domaine's excellent 2007. Offering up aromas of sweet red berries, warm spices, peony and subtle soil tones, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a fine core of fruit that cloaks its rich but fine-grained tannic chassis. While it's an elegant rendition of the Clos de la Bussière, this always needs bottle age.

The 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière almost seemed to relish being unaffected by the frost. A soup?on of schadenfreude perchance? It delivers a joyous, well-defined and concentrated bouquet with a mixture of black and blue fruit, almost Chambolle-like thanks to its richness. The palate is medium-bodied with fresh acidity, and there is superb density here. It feels lively and tensile without compromising the backbone one expects from this vineyard: layers of black fruit tinged with graphite toward the finish. It is almost as if this Morey is rubbing in the fact that its Chambolle stablemates suffered so much during the growing season. This ranks alongside the stupendous 2015 last year.

The 2015 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière, which contains 50% whole bunch fruit, has a clean and precise, almost pixelated bouquet with blackberry, briary and cold limestone scents that gain intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp acidity, quite structured in the mouth with filigree and tensile tannin. This is very focused, linear in style, which is surprising given the warmth during the growing season, with great clarity on the finish. This is just a fantastic Morey-Saint-Denis from Christophe Roumier.