A Boillot 2008 Bourgogne – in fact, improbably, made up of village-level wines from Marsannay, Pernand, and Santenay! – features fresh, brown spice-tinged raspberry and strawberry mingled with tar, licorice, beef blood and marrow. Its salinity and berry tartness serve for invigoration, while the carnal side of this wine lends it some genuine mystery and depth. There is a certain stiffness and leanness of texture, but not only should this remain fresh for at least a half dozen years, it may well gain richness. In 2008, Henri Boillot both expanded his domaine and became ambitious qua negociant with Pinot. In the latter capacity, he looks for contracts where he can exercise control over the farming, so that, for example, all of the 2008s – he reports – were cropped at less than 20 hectoliters per hectare and picked very late. Unorthodoxly (for Burgundy, at least) Boillot pressed many of his reds early to let them complete fermentation in barrel. His malos were late but not dramatically so, finishing in August, and most of the wines were bottled in February, a few earlier. (I tasted several 2007 reds from Boillot, but too early-on to adequately assess, and I have not had time to revisit that collection.)Various importers

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