Weightlessness and crystalline purity inform the 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes. Floral notes meld into a beguiling array of white and yellow stone fruits, all supported by veins of persistent underlying minerality. The Chenevottes is refined, pure and impeccably balanced. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. (Not yet released)Henri Boillot recently finished his move to a new modern cellar in Champ Lins, one of the industrial sections of Meursault. Boillot describes his 2011s as having a bit more richness and better balance of fruit and acidity than the 2010s. Based on what I tasted, it’s hard to argue that point. Boillot seems to be one case where the 2011s have the potential to be better across the board than the 2010s. As is often the case here, the village wines are particularly strong.Importers: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769, Cynthia Hurley French Wines, West Newton, MA Tel 617-965-4251 www.cynthiahurley.com and Chelsea Ventures, LLC, 1601 South Canal St, Chicago, IL 60616 tel. 847-920-5052

The 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes emerges from the glass with smoke, butter and layers of rich fruit. It shows plenty of intensity, but also comes across as a bit on the heavy side. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. This is a beautiful set of wines from Henri Boillot’s negociant line. The entry-level wines in particular offer fabulous value. If anything, those are the most interesting wines here. When tasting Burgundy it is tempting to assume that premier crus are better than villages, and grand crus are better than the premiers, but that is often not the case, especially in a warm vintage where lesser sites ripened to a greate extent than is typically possible. Shrewd readers will find many jewels in this lineup, but they won’t be in the most likely places. In 2011 Boillot will have several new wines in his range, including Referts and Combettes. The 2009 villages were bottled in November, while the premier crus were bottled in January 2011.Importer: Various US importers, including Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769