The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots Haute Densité possesses another dimension of depth and concentration. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of pear, orange oil and peach mingled with white flowers, lime zest and mint, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and seamless, with chalky structure and a long, resonant finish.

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots Haute Densité is brilliant, unwinding in the glass with notes of pear, citrus oil, white flowers and pastry cream. Medium to full-bodied, multidimensional and textural, it's searingly concentrated, with racy acids and huge levels of dry extract. Long and penetrating, it's being matured in a barrel that dates back to the 2013 vintage.

When I visited in early December, Lamy told me that his 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots Haute Densité had fermented especially slowly, and it was correspondingly reticent on the nose. Medium to full-bodied, intense and searingly incisive, with massive reserves of concentration and structuring dry extract, its potential, however, was impossible to miss on the palate. Fortunately, for a wine like this, tasting notes are somewhat academic, as readers will know to buy any of Lamy's Haute Densité wines that they are offered and ask questions later, but I will try to revisit this from bottle in due course.

There is one barrel of the 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots Haut Densité, an extraordinary wine that transcends its appellation. Wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of ripe lemons, dried white flowers and beeswax, the wine is medium to full-bodied, immensely layered and concentrated, with an electric sense of energy, incredible texture and a searingly mineral finish. The wine's combination of amplitude, satiny glossiness and weightlessness is magical, surpassing many grands crus, and despite its comparatively lowly appellation I have scored it accordingly.

The 2016 Puligny Montrachet Les Tremblots Haut Densité was backward on the nose despite coaxing. The palate is much more responsive with green apple and oyster shell notes, a strong marine influence at play here with a tangy saline finish that will keep you coming back for more. Good potential, but give it 2 or 3 years for the nose to open.