Planted at 20,000 vines per hectare but not yet deemed mature enough to merit the "Haute Densité" moniker on the label, Lamy's 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées is his best to date from this site, bursting with aromas of pear, citrus zest, smoke and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's deep and concentrated, with racy acids, chalky structuring extract and a long, saline finish.

Notes of smoke, crisp orchard fruit, white flowers and petrol introduce the 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées, a medium to full-bodied, ample and impressively concentrated wine, girdled by tangy acids and ample reserves of chalky dry extract. Long and penetrating, it's planted at 20,000 vines per hectare, but Lamy considers the vines too young to merit the Haute Densité moniker for the moment.

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées is especially good this year, and Lamy tells me that he has started rolling the canopies in this parcel instead of hedging them. Offering up aromas of fresh peach, citrus oil and pear, as well as delicate top notes of white flowers, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a layered, enveloping profile and a long mineral finish. This might well be the best Chaumées that Lamy has produced to date.

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées is a great success, unfurling in the glass with notions of honeyed citrus fruit, white flowers and crushed chalk. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, saline and tangy, built around a bright line of animating acidity that carries through the long, mouthwateringly chalky finish.

The 2016 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées felt a little flat on the nose compared to some of Olivier Lamy’s superior Saint-Aubins. The palate is well balanced with a fine thread of acidity, touches of fresh pear and white peach, though it is just missing that tension and mineralité on the finish, something thrown into sharp relief since it followed the tensile En Remilly 2016.