This Tavel-based domaine has turned out a solid 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape. A blend of 80% Grenache (matured in tank) and 10% each Mourvèdre and Syrah (matured in new barriques), it starts off a bit tarry, with notes of struck match, but then develops more conventional black plum and blackberry aromas. Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, it finishes long, with a flurry of velvety tannins.

This Lirac-based estate has turned out a magnificently concentrated 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape, loaded with ripe cherries and hints of dark chocolate. A classic blend of 80% Grenache and 10% each Mourvèdre and Syrah, aged in a combination of steel tanks and oak barrels, it's full-bodied and intense, and while the first pour is a bit tight and tarry, the wine opens quickly, folding in savory notes of black olives and roasted meat, all wrapped in silky tannins. It comes close in quality to the terrific 2016, and should drink well through 2035. Certified organic.

The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape is tight and tarry on pouring, gradually opening up to reveal cherry and raspberry fruit. While it doesn't equal the heights of the 2016, it's a very good effort, being full-bodied, ripe and creamy on the mid-palate, then a bit chewy and tannic on the finish. Age it another couple of years, then drink it over the following decade.

A classic blend of 80% Grenache and 10% each Mourvèdre and Syrah, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape was bottled just six weeks before I tasted it at the domaine. It's loaded with raspberry fruit and hints of baking spices (30% of the blend ages in wood). Full-bodied, supple and lush, it's also concentrated, rich and velvety in texture, with notes of clove and cinnamon lingering on the finish.

The star of my visit was the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape. Produced from 3.5 hectares in three parcels, it's sturdy and muscular in style but shows concentrated Grenache fruit to match the ample tannins. It should start to shine in about five years.