The 2019 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brulées wafts from the glass with a rich and carnal bouquet of dark berries, plums, exotic spices, smoked meats, rose petals and classy new oak. Full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it's sensual and gourmand, its structuring tannins entirely concealed in a layered, enveloping core of fruit.

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brulées is another of the more expressive wines in the range, bursting with aromas of black raspberries, cassis, exotic spices, smoke and sweet soil tones. Full-bodied, concentrated and enveloping, with supple tannins and a broad, sumptuous core of perfumed fruit, it's demonstrative and dramatic, concluding with a long, resonant finish.

Mingling deep fruit tones of raspberries and wild berries with exotic suggestions of Asian spices, rose hips and tea-smoked duck, Leroy's 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brulées is medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, with powdery tannins, succulent acids and a deep, layered mid-palate. This, too, has turned out very well, though this year I'm inclined to prefer the Beaux Monts.

The 2016 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brulées is a wine that speaks to the senses more than the intellect, soaring from the glass with aromas of ripe cassis, cherries and blackberries that mingle with lifted top-notes of rose petal and exotic spice. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and gourmand, cascading over the tongue with wave after wave of succulent, satiny fruit that entirely cloaks its satiny tannins, before concluding with a lavish, expansive but unerringly precise finish. I confess to a decided weakness for this Vosne-Romanée premier cru, a wine that's among the most viscerally thrilling in the Leroy portfolio.

The 2015 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Br?lées is one of the highlights in Domaine Leroy's formidable portfolio, soaring from the glass with an extroverted but almost ineffably complex bouquet of ripe blackberry, peony, game bird and wood smoke. On the palate, the wine is extraordinarily velvety and grand, with a lavish attack, a layered and multidimensional mid-palate and a long, saline finish—scintillatingly energetic despite the ripe, dramatic profile so typical of this climat. If there were ever any doubts about whether Aux Br?lées is one of Vosne-Romanée's finest premier crus, this bottle will dispel them. For now, the wine hasn't shut down, and I expect it to offer a very broad drinking window.