Aromas of citrus zest, peach and pear, mingled with hints of white flowers, hazelnuts and fresh bread, preface the 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Gain, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and nicely concentrated wine with a bright spine of acidity and a mouthwateringly chalky finish. This looks to be Colin's best Champs Gain since 2017.

The 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Gain opens in the glass with hints of nutmeg, pear, peach, white flowers and fresh pastry. Medium to full-bodied, supple and charming, with lively acids, its outlines are promising, and I suspect it will take on depth with further élevage.

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Gain is showing nicely, exhibiting notions of white currant, fresh peach, almond paste and ripe citrus. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, open-knit but incisive, with good underlying tension and a mouthwatering finish. I suspect it will come together further with additional élevage.

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Gain is showing very well from bottle, unfurling in the glass with a lovely bouquet that mingles citrus oil and mandarin with notes of white flowers and green apple. Medium to full-bodied, enveloping and textural, it's deep and concentrated, with fine tension at the core and a long, saline finish.

I tasted the 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Gain in October of last year, and revisiting it from bottle, I was delighted to see that it has really gained depth and dimension with its additional élevage on the lees. Unfurling in the glass with notes of crisp green orchard fruit, lemon oil, lime zest and wet stones, it's medium to full-bodied, tangy and incisive, with a lovely core of fruit and a stony finish. The wine's impressive cut and energy mark it out as one of the highlights of Colin's 2016 portfolio.