The 2016 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru les Pucelles has another outgoing bouquet like the Les Referts but I discerned more refinement and control here. The palate is nicely balanced with a slightly honeyed opening, tinged with orange pith and a touch of spice, although the finish does not quite deliver the mineral drive of some of the domaine’s best Chassagnes.

The 2015 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru les Pucelles showed a notch more precocity than the Les Referts from barrel, clean and pure, the oak nicely integrated and complementing the subtle tropical tones. The palate is taut on the entry with a pinch of spice, a keen line of acidity and fine focus, building in weight towards the lightly honeyed finish. This is very fine, but I would afford it a couple of years once in bottle.

The 2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru les Pucelles has a little more vigour and intensity than the les Referts, scents of dewy green apple, dewy pasture, something almost...pastoral about this. The palate is lively and vigorous with a keen line of acidity, flirting but not stepping over into shrillness. There is a subtle sea influence that becomes pronounced on the finish with a crustacea-tinged aftertaste that lingers long in the mouth. Very fine - a Puligny with aging potential.

The 2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru les Pucelles has superb mineralité on the nose - a clear step-up from the village cru. This just could not come from anywhere else, articulating its origins with great transparency. The palate is very well balanced with vibrant acidity and tension. It attenuates slightly toward the stoic finish, but it retains the poise and finesse, then delivers a lovely spicy aftertaste. Excellent.