Notes of blackberries, cassis, dark chocolate, loamy soil and mandarin orange preface the 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Ronceret, a medium to full-bodied, fleshy wine with a charmingly sensual attack that segues into an ample mid-palate and a precise, mineral finish.

Another of the more generous, gourmand wines int he range, the 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Ronceret wafts from the glass with rich aromas of blackberries, raspberries and candied peel. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with a rich core of fruit, melting tannins and juicy acids, concluding with a long finish that belies its fruit-driven attack.

The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Ronceret was 100% destemmed. Living up to its name there is plenty of blackberry and wild hedgerow on the nose although I would like to see more vigor develop by the time it is bottled. The palate is well balanced with chewy tannin, crisp acidity, quite muscular for a Volnay but there is fine precision on the lightly spiced finish. The length here is impressive, although I think Nicolas Rossignol made more complex and terroir-specific wines in this vintage.

Nicolas Rossignol described the 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Roncerets as his "baby," although he warned that it does need time. It has a well-defined bouquet with blackberry, raspberry and hints of marmalade and mandarin lending towards its opulence. The palate is well balanced with supple tannin, very well-judged acidity, plenty of blackcurrant and raspberry fruit, a pinch of white pepper and orange pith towards the well-executed finish. This is a classy Volnay that should give up to 15 years of drinking pleasure, possibly more.

The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Roncerets (100% destemmed) has an elegant, perhaps understated bouquet that is nicely detailed with fine mineralité. The palate is medium-bodied with blueberry and blackberry fruit, a fine line of acidity with impressive focus, even though I am seeking just a little more flesh towards the sappy, lightly spiced finish. Give this 2-3 years in bottle.