There are five barrels of the 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly, a lovely rendition of this seldom seen climat that reveals pretty aromas of beeswax, nutmeg and crisp yellow orchard fruit. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and unctuously textured, but it's balanced by tangy acids and concludes with a pure, mineral finish. It's a success.

There is not En Remilly from Saint-Aubin this year, so you will have to make do with the 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly, which Philippe has made in the past. To be honest, it does not have the complexity or nerve of the Chenevottes that I tasted directly prior to it, missing a little energy. The palate is taut and linear, quite strict with a slight bitterness toward the finish. It is a nervous, conservative Chassagne that just needs a little more body.

A 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet En Remilly displays a resinous, spicy overtone that I am inclined to ascribe to wood (one of two barrels was new) but Colin says he thinks is partly a manifestation of site. In any event, this is impressive in the mouth, with subtle oiliness of texture, an underlying sense of density, and invigorating pungency and tactile impingement of citrus rind and chalk. Along with the active personality of this wine goes a certain sense of its being unsettled at the moment, as well as a touch of extraneous wood. But this should perform admirably over at least the next 4-6 years. Since splitting the family inheritance with his brother Bruno in 2004, Philippe Colin has taken on supplemental grape contracts, but only where he is able to personally work the vines and call the shots at harvest. In 2007, he picked his entire acreage in one week, beginning September 4, and lightly chaptalized his wines to levels generally just on either side of 13%. Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185; Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524