The 2013 Puligny-Montrachet les Champ Gain has an attractive flinty, smoky bouquet, hints of apricot blossom coming through. The palate is nicely balanced, supple in the mouth, but just missing a little race and mineralite on the saline finish.

The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Champs Gain is pretty, round and harmonious. It is another of the more open 2010s here, but has a level of textural finesse and sheer elegance that is missing from some of the other more approachable wines. A pretty, spiced note lingers on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Pierre-Yves Colin and Caroline Morey follow their stunning 2009s with an equally compelling set of 2010s. The 2010s have deep site-specific signatures, rich fruit and plenty of acidity. Fans of this small, but increasingly high profile address will want to flock to these wines. Pierre Yves Colin started picking on September 22. Yields were down just 5-10%, which is pretty remarkable considering the vintage. It was a difficult vintage in the cellar, as malos were late and slow. When I visited last June, virtually all of the wines were still finishing their malos. With the exception of the St. Aubins, the 2010s spent about 18 months in barrel. The St. Aubins were bottled in November 2011. All of the other 2010s were bottled in April 2012. The 2011s, which I tasted from barrel, are very promising, so there is a lot to look forward to. A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The 2009 Puligny-Montrachet Champs Gain is a gorgeous wine at this level. It captures a gorgeous middle ground of ripe, exuberant fruit with more classic structural elements. Soft and silky through to the finish, the Champs Gain impresses for its dazzling purity and clarity. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is one of Burgundy’s most exciting young producers. Colin-Morey works with six hectares of vineyards, three of which are estate owned, while the rest are sources of purchased fruit. According to Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, the key to 2009 was picking early. The harvest started on the September 4. Colin-Morey did a long, slow press, with no batonnage once the wines were in barrel, all with the aim of preserving as much freshness as possible given the natural ripeness of the fruit. Roughly 80% of the wines were aged in 350-liter barrels, larger than the norm in Burgundy. Colin-Morey finished bottling the 2009s in April 2011. Colin-Morey told me he wasn’t enthused about the 2009s at first, but now thinks the wines have enough freshness to age well. A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; also imported by Bertin Henri Selections, 10900 N.W. 21st Street, Unit 180, Doral, Florida 33172 tel: (305) 343-4054

The light to medium-bodied, silky-textured 2003 Puligny-Montrachet Champs Gain (white) reveals notes of fresh mint leaves in its aromas as well as flavors. Soft and fleshy, notes of ripe apples can be discerned in its expressive personality. Drink it over the next 4 years. One final note: Pierre-Yves Colin (and others) have also found the mint/pine resin characteristics in this small firm’s wines. While these traits are not unappealing, he is baffled as to where they can come from since he acquires fruit from numerous sources and uses barrels that others employ without the same results. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185

The 2002 Puligny-Montrachet Champs-Gain displays menthol and mineral aromas. Harmonious, medium-bodied, and fleshy, it has a concentrated personality packed with creamed minerals, sappy stones, and a long, suave, spice-laden finish. Projected maturity: now-2012. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185