The 2015 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru les Hauts Doix is matured in one-third new oak and includes no whole bunches. It has a fragrant bouquet with well-defined blackberry and boysenberry notes, understated at first but unfurling with confidence with each swirl of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannin. There is plenty of vibrant black fruit here, but what I like is that mineral texture, like licking active limestone that leaves the tongue tingling after the wine has departed. Excellent.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, Groffier's 2014 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru les Hauts Doix is much more pure on the nose compared to the Les Groseilles from Digioia-Royer, sporting lifted red cherries, wild strawberry and raspberry preserves—vigorous and very focused. The palate is pure and sensual on the entry, the acidity very well judged, with a caressing and long finish laden with black fruit. It needs another couple of years to absorb the oak, but it will be worth the wait. Tasted September 2017.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Hauts Doix has a reserved, tightly wound bouquet, but there is decent fruit stored up here, black plum and raspberry coulis, damp earthy notes that become more accentuated in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, plenty of juicy red fruit laid over fine structure, plus there is fine mineralité surfacing on the finish to complete to a very well-made Chambolle-Musigny from Nicolas Groffier. Tasted September 2016.

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Haut-Doix from Nicolas Groffier has a disjointed nose that feels rather under-ripe, more vegetal than leafy. The palate is much more promising. Sure, it is on the lean side at first, but it sorts itself out in the glass and puts on the weight and fleshy it needs. There is an elegance to this Hauts Doix, though I think Nicolas will conjure much better examples in future years.

The 2009 Chambolle-Musigny Les Hauts-Doix floats from the glass with plenty of Chambolle character. Red berries, flowers and sweet spices come together beautifully in this sleek, impeccably crafted Burgundy. The finish is delicate, understated and totally sensual. This is a gorgeous wine from Groffier. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2029. This is a beautiful set of wines from Groffier. The estate farms eight hectares of vineyards, all of which it owns. The fruit receives a cold soak prior to fermentation that accounts for much of the trademark perfume these wines show. The 2009s were bottled between mid-December, 2010 and mid-January 2011. Various US importers, including: Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; tel. (650) 328-6639 and a Peter Vezan Selection, Paris, peter.vezan@wanadoo.fr