The 2005s are intense, rich, structured, tannic, and backward. Like so many Northern Rhones, they possess considerable structure and tannin which gives the sense that the wines are going to age for a long time. Yet in the eternal struggle in a wine’s evolution between the fruit and the tannin, the tannins win out 90% or more of the time.The 2005 Cote Rotie reveals a much darker color than its 2004 counterpart. Sweet black cherry and cola notes are intermixed with some camphor, herbs, and spice. On the palate, the wine has a boatload of tannin in the finish. This will be one of the more backward wines Rostaing has made, needing 2-3 years of bottle age and lasting 12-15 years. P.S. The least expensive wine Rostaing makes, which comes from the Coteaux du Languedoc, is the 2004 Puech Chaude. A blend of 80% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre, and 10% Grenache, aged 50% in tank and 50% and barrel, it is a beauty and ideal for drinking in its first 3-4 years of life. 2004 is a classic vintage for Rostaing, who succeeded in a tough year in the Northern Rhone by performing severe crop-thinning measures during the growing season. Nevertheless, these wines are dwarfed by his freakishly rich 2003s and his beautiful 2005s, which he claims are “the best vintage I’ve made.” Importer: Manny Berk, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

The 2004 Cote Rotie displays notes of olives, fresh herbs, sweet cherries, raspberry, and some smoke and lard. The wine is medium-bodied, has some tart acidity, and it is best drunk over the next 5-6 years. P.S. The least expensive wine Rostaing makes, which comes from the Coteaux du Languedoc, is the 2004 Puech Chaude. A blend of 80% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre, and 10% Grenache, aged 50% in tank and 50% and barrel, it is a beauty and ideal for drinking in its first 3-4 years of life. 2004 is a classic vintage for Rostaing, who succeeded in a tough year in the Northern Rhone by performing severe crop-thinning measures during the growing season. Nevertheless, these wines are dwarfed by his freakishly rich 2003s and his beautiful 2005s, which he claims are “the best vintage I’ve made.” Importer: Manny Berk, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

Rostaing’s 2003 Cote Rotie (now labeled as Ampodium), which was harvested amazingly on August 22nd, offers fabulous richness and depth, with layers of plum, black raspberry, spice and toast on the nose. This all flows to a full-bodied, voluptuously textured Cote Rotie that has impressive cut and focus, sweet tannin and a rocking finish. Hard to resist now, it has another 8-10 years of longevity.

The opaque purple-colored 1998 Cote Rotie (100% Syrah, with a portion from the Vialliere vineyard) exhibits surprisingly sweet tannin. Rostaing destemmed about 50% of this cuvee, resulting in gorgeous levels of creamy black fruits, subtle smoke and toast, a voluptuous texture, and a forward, easy to drink and understand style. Concentrated, sensual, and velvety-textured, this lovely Cote Rotie will drink well upon release and over the following decade. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524

The 1993 Cote Rotie displays a medium ruby color, a smoky bouquet, elegant, adequately concentrated, spicy flavors, and soft tannin. It will require drinking in its first 5-7 years of life. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; Tel. (510) 524-1524