The 2011 Gigondas is one of the more seductive wines in this sensual vintage. Although it is not as big as the two preceding vintages, it is an attractive blend of 75% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre and the rest Syrah and Cinsault. Aged completely in foudre, it exhibits lots of blueberry, blackberry and kirsch fruit intermixed with hints of crushed rocks and spring flowers. This medium to full-bodied, soft Gigondas is ideal for drinking during its first 6-10 years of life. (Not yet released) Several years ago Yves Gras purchased some hectares from Paul Jeune (the proprietor of Mont Pertuis) in the renowned La Crau sector of Chateauneuf du Pape, and his first two efforts are noteworthy. Under the negociant label called Santa Duc Selections, Gras produces some delicious white wines that merit attention from consumers. They are generally blends of Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Viognier. Yves Gras is also the winemaker for Patricia Wells, who has a home and cooking school in Vaison La Romaine, a few miles north of Gigondas. Her estate is called Clos Chanteduc. The Domaine Santa Duc produces a Cotes du Rhone called Les Quatres Terres, which is a 4,000-case blend of 70% Grenache, 25% Syrah and the rest Counoise and Mourvedre. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 239-1275

This is a brick house, with iron-clad grip coursing through the core of black currant, dried fig and blackberry reduction notes. Lots of bay, tobacco and juniper stride in on the finish, with a sprinkle of baker's chocolate for added length and tension. Needs a little time. Best from 2015 through 2025. 500 cases imported.??–JM??Region: France / Southern Rh?ne / Gigondas Select to Add

A rocking Gigondas that delivers the goods - and then some - is the 2010 Gigondas. It offers full throttle, petal to the metal notes of creme de cassis, black raspberries, spice, licorice and background meatiness, all while showing the purity, precision and focus of this brilliant vintage. Possessing full-bodied richness, a big mid-palate and a layered textured, with building tannin, it's still an infant and needs another 2-3 years to be approachable, yet will cruise for over a decade after that.

The 2010 Gigondas Tradition (an identical blend) is dense, showing crisper acids, and a touch more focus and precision than the 2009. But again, it is a big wine, deep, full-bodied, with outstanding ripeness in its hints of licorice, truffles, asphalt, black raspberries and black cherries. It should drink well for 15 or more years. (Not yet released)One of the long-time benchmarks for superb Gigondas is Yves Gras’ estate on the high plateau several kilometers outside the entrance to this old Roman village. He has also expanded into the negociant end of the business with his Santa Duc Selections, which are very reliable wines worth a serious look. Until 2007, there were consistently two cuvees of Gigondas made in top vintages. With the finest vintages, Gras has now added a 100% Grenache cuvee called Grand Grenache 66, from a tiny parcel of vines and essentially just one small foudre. Turning back to the basic wines, they offer good value and are top-flight wines. The newest baby for Yves Gras comes from his purchase of 1.23 hectares (essentially about 3+ acres) of old vines planted with 100% Grenache in the Chateauneuf du Pape lieu-dit in the very north known as Font du Loup.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

The 2009 Gigondas Tradition, a blend of 75% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre and the rest Syrah and Cinsault, tips the scales at about 16% alcohol, so there’s nothing wimpy about this wine. Loads of blueberry, smoky blackberry, kirsch, licorice and hints of toast and earth all make an appearance in this voluptuously styled, evolved wine, which is already drinking beautifully. This wine has low acidity and velvety tannins, so there’s no need to wait to enjoy this gorgeous red, which is drinking well now and should continue to do so for at least another 10-12 years. One of the long-time benchmarks for superb Gigondas is Yves Gras’ estate on the high plateau several kilometers outside the entrance to this old Roman village. He has also expanded into the negociant end of the business with his Santa Duc Selections, which are very reliable wines worth a serious look. Until 2007, there were consistently two cuvees of Gigondas made in top vintages. With the finest vintages, Gras has now added a 100% Grenache cuvee called Grand Grenache 66, from a tiny parcel of vines and essentially just one small foudre. Turning back to the basic wines, they offer good value and are top-flight wines. The newest baby for Yves Gras comes from his purchase of 1.23 hectares (essentially about 3+ acres) of old vines planted with 100% Grenache in the Chateauneuf du Pape lieu-dit in the very north known as Font du Loup.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083