Spices and perfume make up the aromatic profile of the 2000 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot. A concentrated wine, it exhibits loads of depth in its white fruit and stone-flavored character. It is broad, vinous, and expressive. Projected maturity: now-2009. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802. In addition, Vincent Girardin sells many of these same wines under the Baron de la Charriere label to European Cellars, Eric Solomon, New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949

The opulent 1999 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot has a shy, mineral-dominated nose. This medium-to-full-bodied, velvety-textured wine is deep, balanced, and has a hugely plump, chewy personality. Layers of spiced pears, candied apples, and anise can be found throughout this sexy offering's personality as well as in its admirable long and pure finish. Drink it over the next 8-9 years. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802. In addition, Vincent Girardin sells many of these same wines under the Baron de la Charriere label to European Cellars, Eric Solomon, New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949.

Given the fact that most of the Chassagne-Montrachet Les Morgeots crafted in 1998 reflected this vineyard's propensity for making broad-shouldered, thick wines, Girardin's is light to medium-bodied and subtle. Aromas of herbal tea are followed by a citrus, stone, and mineral-dominated character. This well-made and balanced, lace-like wine should be consumed over the next 5 years. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.

According to Vincent Girardin, he crafted his 50 barrels of 1997 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot from both grapes and must acquired from five different proprietors. The finished wine has a floral and tea leaf-scented nose as well as a boldly assertive personality. This earth and mineral-filled offering has exquisite richness, a medium body, and tangy mineral components in its finish. Drink it over the next 6 years. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.

In the majority of vintages, red Chassagnes suffer from hard, rustic tannins. However, in 1996, I found a number of truly first rate wines offered from this village that is primarily renowned for its whites. The ruby-colored Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot is highly-impressive. Blackberry and mineral scents give way to a luscious and awesomely oily-textured character loaded with sweet red and black cherries. This wine also possesses a long and glycerin-filled finish that reveals soft, ripe tannins. Anticipated maturity: 1999-2004. The score, on a range and in parentheses, indicates that the wine was tasted from barrel. Vincent Girardin's 1996s are generally fresher and more supple than his 1995s, but are not as concentrated or structured. Since he personally prefers softer styled wines, Girardin prefers the 1996 vintage. My feeling is that many of his 1995s will develop better over time than these delicious mid-term drinking wine. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802