One of the highlights of the range this year is the 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée, a lovely wine that wafts from the glass with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, musk melon, freshly baked bread, nutmeg and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's rich and multidimensional, with bright acids and a long, saline finish.

The 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée is another tiny but brilliant cuvée from Eric Germain. Mingling notions of pear, peach and orange oil with hints of fresh mint, warm bread, pastry cream and nutmeg, it's full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, with an ample core of fruit, tangy acids and chalky structuring extract. Deep and seamless, it's well worth seeking out.

Aromas of pear, crisp cantaloupe melon, white flowers and mint introduce the 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée, a medium to full-bodied, ample and precise wine with an elegantly textural attack, fine depth at the core, lively acids and a saline finish. Again, this will be a touch more accessible young than its 2017 counterpart.

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée confirms its superb showing from barrel, mingling scents of green apple, melon and citrus with hints of pastry cream and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, deep and satiny, it's more introverted and structured than the Caillerets, underpinned by a racy spine of acidity. The finish is long and penetrating.

Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Bouilland. The 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée has a very candied and dare I say, quite commercial nose. Attractive in its own way, yet a little facile compared to its peers. The palate is balanced, rounded, easy-drinking, full of tropical fruit but missing real tension and complexity on the finish. You might call this a "punter's Chassagne-Montrachet"? Tasted May 2016.