The Weinbach 2007 Gewurztraminer Altenbourg Cuvee Laurence combines the themes and virtues of their other bottlings of this vintage and variety, with aromas of litchi, rose, peony, brown spices, bacon, and sea breeze, and a oily palate that is both rich and refreshing, its honeyed waves fascinatingly suffused with saline, alkaline, iodine minerality. There’s plenty of finishing smokiness here, but not much heat, in return for which the wine is exceedingly sweet, yet in a way that underscores its liquid perfume character and that does not engulf its mineral complexities. Once could follow this safely for at least 12-15 years, I feel sure. This year, Domaine Weinbach will receive its official certification as organic and biodynamic growers. The Fallers did well in the difficult 2006 vintage – especially with those Gewurztraminer harvested before botrytis gained the upper hand – and with good reason expressed elation over the vibrancy and refinement that characterizes most of 2007s.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The Weinbach 2006 Gewurztraminer Altenbourg Cuvee Laurence is both sweetly and intriguingly sea spray-like scented, with mint and candied grapefruit rind offering contrast. It persists with mineral themes, folding a scallop-like sweet, saline savor into lush, creamy pineapple, litchi, and liquid rose perfume. Hints of grapefruit rind, plum pit, and mint offset what is here overt finishing sweetness, while the marine elements lend the finish an appealingly lip-licking quality. I would be inclined if this wine were from a different sort of vintage to recommend cellaring it for a decade in anticipation of the sweetness receding and minerality becoming if anything more interesting. But given the background of this vintage, I would recommend one cellar cautiously and monitor the wine's evolution over the next 3-5 years. This year, Domaine Weinbach will receive its official certification as organic and biodynamic growers. The Fallers did well in the difficult 2006 vintage - especially with those Gewurztraminer harvested before botrytis gained the upper hand - and with good reason expressed elation over the vibrancy and refinement that characterizes most of 2007s.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The Weinbach 2005 Gewurztraminer Altenbourg Cuvee Laurence is powerfully honey- and brown spice-scented, rich, creamy, and honeyed on the palate with a mysterious depth of saline, iodine, and otherwise savory minerality, and finishes with another for this variety amazing display of honeyed, malted richness combined with refreshment and genuine delicacy, its 45 grams of residual sugar tasting like half as much thanks to sheer freshness and extract. This tour de force should not falter over the next two decades.The dynamic trio of Fallers continues to bottle some of France’s (hardly just Alsace’s) richest and most flamboyant wines. Beginning with 2005, all of their vineyards are being biodynamically farmed. Laurence Faller finds their 2005s in general “more focused and clear” (this was especially true of Riesling) despite their often prominent botrytis component, and the 2004s richer. I suppose it goes without saying, but one has to carefully scrutinize each Weinbach label, so numerous are the cuvees. And as wonderful as is the distinctiveness exhibited by the vast majority of wines here, even a geek like yours truly could be forgiven for asking whether somewhat fewer different bottlings might benefit consumers as well as journalists!Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Subtly alkaline and bracingly saline shadings in the nose of the 2004 Gewurztraminer Altenbourg Cuvee Laurence set the themes for what follows: remarkable refinement, refreshment, and striking minerality for this variety, yet richness, too. A carpet of rose petal and lilies; oceanic depth and salinity of minerals; and generous, luscious peach and citrus cover the palate, carrying into a buoyant, intensely perfumed yet somehow delicate finish. The combination of botrytis and desiccation on these grapes seems to have worked some sort of magic in the context of both the variety and the vintage.The dynamic trio of Fallers continues to bottle some of France’s (hardly just Alsace’s) richest and most flamboyant wines. Beginning with 2005, all of their vineyards are being biodynamically farmed. Laurence Faller finds their 2005s in general “more focused and clear” (this was especially true of Riesling) despite their often prominent botrytis component, and the 2004s richer. I suppose it goes without saying, but one has to carefully scrutinize each Weinbach label, so numerous are the cuvees. And as wonderful as is the distinctiveness exhibited by the vast majority of wines here, even a geek like yours truly could be forgiven for asking whether somewhat fewer different bottlings might benefit consumers as well as journalists!Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802