Bursting with aromas of dried white flowers, crisp yellow orchard fruit and freshly baked bread, the 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and textural, with bright acids and a rich core of fruit that reflects its origins in a sunny, well-exposed site. This is one of the more demonstrative premiers crus in the range.

The 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu unwinds in the glass with notions of orange oil, clear honey, beeswax and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, it's racy and chiseled, with terrific concentration and a long, pungently saline finish.

The 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu is one of the more muscular premiers crus in the range, offering up aromas of crisp green orchard fruit, citrus confit, wet stones, white flowers and beeswax. Medium to full-bodied, elegantly fleshy and textural, with a generous core of fruit underpinned by fine cut and chalky extract, it has turned out well.

The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu was very reserved when I tasted it, unfurling with reticent aromas of green apple and citrus, followed by a medium-bodied, tense and tight-knit palate with tangy acids and a saline finish. My intuition is that it has good potential, though it's hard to read. Yields were low in Fèvre's Mont de Milieu holdings, coming in at 33 hectoliters per hectare.

The 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu was much more closed on the nose compared to Fevre's other premier crus. The palate is strict and linear and it is quite saline in the mouth with a touch of brioche in the background. I would have liked to see more depth here as it just tapers in a little towards the finish. Fine, but maybe this will turn out not to be the best this vintage. We will see.