While I missed out on tasting the corresponding Federspiel, Knolls’ 2010 Gelber Muskateller Smaragd is not to be missed. A riot of floral perfume – orange blossom, elder, sage flower – soars from the glass; then joins fresh orange and apricot on a voluminous yet athletically and almost electrically-charged palate, with pungent lemon zest, white pepper, sage leaf, and peppermint leaving a slightly bitter but palate-staining and invigorating mark. I would plan on drinking this formidable offering within 2-3 years, lest its bitterness get the better of it. “Warmth and wind at the end of October gave Smaragd the extra push, especially for Gruner Veltliner,” notes Emmerich Knoll Senior, and his estate did not begin picking that category until the first week in November. “Up until then, it pretty much counted as settled that we wouldn’t bottle a 2010 Vinothek in either Riesling or Gruner Veltliner, which in fact we did. But I can’t recall when the Smaragd ever had acid levels identical to the Federspiel as happened this year. Not that I’m unhappy about this,” he adds with a laugh. “There have been and will be quite a few vintages in which we would be happy for some of 2010’s acidity.” A portion of the Riesling Federspiel crop was de-acidified as must. Total production was only around half of what Knoll considers normal. None of the Smaragd – collectively, almost unbelievably, representing the heart of one of the finest Knoll collections in memory – was not due to have been bottled until late this summer.Importer: Circo Vino Besenville, IL; tel. (417) 732 4200

This year, there is a Knoll 2007 Gelber Muskateller Smaragd (whose existence might also explain the relative simplicity of this year’s Federspiel bottling). Aromas of lemon zest, sage, peppermint, and elder flower inform this surprisingly full and richly-textured rendition, which however incorporates the tactile invigoration one expects from this grape, and should perform well for at least 2-3 years. Like many of their neighbors, the Knolls harvested Federspiel already in late September, but then largely sat out the rains for three weeks before commencing to pick Smaragd. Botrytis-affected clusters were segregated and pressed immediately, and even the entirely healthy portion of the crop was given less skin contact than usual. A few botrytized rows or parcels were left to hang for nobly sweet wine (in a vintage where few Wachauer followed suit) although not from Riesling. I continue to long for the return of a vintage wherein the Knoll Gruner Veltliner outshines their Riesling, as has not happened for some years now. As has once again become the norm here, none of the Smaragd (save for the Muskateller) were bottled before late summer of last year, and my most recent notes are from cask (or occasionally tank).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700